The Nan Loop

Nan province sits in the northeast corner of northern Thailand against the Laos border, and it is far enough off the standard circuit that the roads are empty in a way the Mae Hong Son loop simply is not. Thai Motorcycle Tours markets this week to sport bike riders for exactly that reason. The structure matches the rest of the range. Saturday is arrival, bike allocation, a welcome dinner and a night out. Sunday brings the safety induction and a group day ride. Then five days on the loop. Monday runs 217 kilometres from Chiang Mai to Phayao. Tuesday is 222 kilometres on to Nan, where the group stays two nights. Wednesday is the standout: a 491-kilometre day trip out from Nan and back, by far the longest single day in any of the operator's itineraries, on the sort of remote sweepers the province is known for. Thursday is 277 kilometres south to Uttaradit, and Friday is 190 kilometres on a fast return to Chiang Mai. Saturday is departure day. The operator sets expectations plainly. There are attractions along the route, the occasional set of ancient temple murals and a weaving village, but the bulk of the week is spent riding roads that are spectacular and, because of where they are, almost entirely free of other tourists. One published review notes a fair amount of expressway on the last day and a half, which is the trade for a fast return. Group size runs from five to twelve riders with a maximum of 25. The bike selection for this loop leans toward machines that suit sustained fast corners: a Kawasaki Versys 650, a Honda CB500X or CB650R, a Suzuki V-Strom 650 or 1050, or a Ducati Monster. As with the rest of the range the price is all-inclusive, covering twin-share rooms, all meals, fuel, the motorcycle and its maintenance, entrance fees, airport transfers, guiding in English and Thai, and VAT. Personal travel and riding insurance is the rider's responsibility.

Tour C in the operator's range and the one it sells to sport riders: wide sweeping bends, very little traffic and, in its own words, knee sliders optional. The loop runs Chiang Mai to Phayao, on to Nan for two nights with a 491-kilometre day trip out from there, then Uttaradit and a fast return to Chiang Mai. There are a few sights along the way, ancient temple murals and a weaving village among them, but the operator is honest that the appeal is the roads themselves and how far they sit from anywhere tourists normally go. The bike list skews accordingly toward the Kawasaki Versys 650, Honda CB650R, Suzuki V-Strom 650 and 1050 and the Ducati Monster. Published price is 64,189 baht per person, all-inclusive of meals, fuel, rooms, entrance fees and transfers.